Dupioni Silk Fabric
Dupioni silk fabric has become very popular recently due to the unusual qualities that separate it from other types of silk. Silk has always been considered a luxurious fabric and in times past was restricted to the upper classes because of its expense. Royalty all over the globe used it in their robes of state as it was relatively rare to see an average person that could afford such fabric. Today, thanks to advanced and less expensive production techniques, almost anyone can afford to wear silk.
There are many different types of silk; Dupioni silk fabric derives its name from the Italian word “doppio”, meaning “double”. Dupioni refers to the way that the silk is “grown”. In order to get Dupioni silk, farmers have to have cocoons that are double or woven side by side. They have found that by placing silkworms in very close quarters the worms will weave their cocoons together. This produces a thread with unusual and beautiful aspects; the threads have small variations in weave that give them a nubby texture. Some of the worms’ cocoons are left in the thread so that it appears that there are small black specks and streaks in it. For this reason, no two pieces of Dupioni silk fabric are alike.
Because the silkworms used to make Dupioni are captive it is one of the less expensive silks. It has become very popular for use in home furnishings and formal wear because of its stiff texture and durability. By weaving together two different colors of finished threads it gives the illusion of changing color as the light changes. However, only one color is usually used in bridal gowns, furniture fabric and evening clothes.
Dupioni silk fabric is stiffer than other silks and thus makes good quality, durable draperies. It is completely reversible so whichever side is showing is the “best” side. Because it naturally falls in soft folds and the stiffness keeps it in place it has become a favorite of furniture upholsterers and interior decorators.
It has become common to see Dupioni silk fabric in wedding gowns because the stiff texture is perfect for holding beads and maintaining the shape and beauty of embroidery. It doesn’t wrinkle easily and will hold a crease better than most fabrics. For these reasons it is an ideal fabric for use in making handbags, jackets and shirts. You can get it in solid colors or stripes and even checkered patterns.
You should never wash any item of Dupioni silk fabric as it will shrink about 10% per yard. If you are sewing with this silk and want to wash it, it should be done before you start to work with it. If you own a clothing or accessory item of this material you should always dry clean it if it gets dirty. Few non-professional seamstresses and tailors use Dupioni because it holds impressions of pins that are very hard to hide.
Silk has a rich and fascinating history. It was discovered by the concubine of a Chinese emperor around 2600 B.C. when she dropped a cocoon into hot tea to see if it would give it a special flavor. When the cocoon unraveled in the liquid she knew that it could be used to make very special fabric. That creative woman, Lady His-Ling-Shih, was later deified as the Goddess of Silk.
The average silkworm cocoon produces around 950-1300 feet of thread and it takes about 5500 silkworms to produce a little over two pounds of raw silk. As silk production (formally called Sericulture) and its methods progressed, silk gradually became more affordable. Because of advanced and cheaper production methods, Dupioni silk fabric is one of the most affordable, versatile silks available.